Cuisine:

• Italian
• Others

Frank Papa's Ristorante Description:
The blink-and-you've-missed-it, modest suburban storefront gives no sign of the white-tablecloth service that lies within, where the white walls and simple décor remind us a little of similar spots in northern Italy. Those in-the-know are sure to make reservations to claim their share of the mussels diavolo dished out to local hotshots and less-assuming types who just like good Italian food. Those mussels come in a tomato sauce generously pumped up with garlic and red pepper. Flash-fried escarole, shatteringly crisp, is more flavorful than its spinach counterpart found elsewhere. Fine soups are made from what's fresh that day. Ziti alla carbonara, heartier than most carbonaras, is happily heavy on the pancetta. The kitchen doesn't over-sauce, either. Veal alla Diana, named for Frank's wife and co-proprietor who runs the front of the house, sports brown mushrooms, a little basil and tomato in a classic brown sauce. Check out the chocolate ravioli for dessert. The wine list includes some unfamiliar, but fine and moderately priced, labels.


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