Cuisine:

• Mediterranean
• American
• Latin American

La Marea Restaurant Description:
Since chef Gonzalo Rivera Jr. (whose main background is at various Michael Mina Group restaurants, including a stint as executive chef at NEMI in Mexico City) took over La Marea's kitchen, the bill of fare has been much revamped. Where the emphasis had been on Italian-style seafood and pasta specialties, prepared simply yet with impressive precision, the concept now seems to be a generalized upscale resort menu of comfort food, mainly Mediterranean but with familiar contemporary American and Latin components. There's nothing wrong with the current cuisine, except miserly portion size for the price. In fact, some dishes demonstrate considerable wit (lobster corn dogs with crème fraîche-mustard sauce) and-or skill (a hamachi parfait with sriracha mayo and mushroom sauce). But does Miami really need more crab cakes with aïoli and sun-dried tomato, Angus sliders, pasta Bolognese, tomato gazpacho (with Dungeness crab salad, here in the U.S.'s stone crab capital), chicken with mac 'n' cheese, standard modern ceviches, or death-by-chocolate-overkill desserts? As for things that haven't changed: the elevated outdoor dining terrace is still one of South Beach's most romantic beachfront people-watching spots, and prices (food, drink, valet parking, you name it) are still stratospheric.


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