Cuisine:

• Contemporary

Morgan's in the desert Description:
As the flagship restaurant of the legendary desert hideaway (Marlene Dietrich brought lovers here, as doubtlessly did many others), this elegant room, with its adjacent patio, has been given a $2 million renovation, recalling the look of the resort when William H. Morgan opened it in 1926. The original arched wood ceiling and fireplace are set off by Spanish architecture, large mirrors, leather furniture, rustic wooden tables, round hanging lamps and ceiling fans, resulting in a more casual look and feel than its predecessor, Azur. The kitchen is under the leadership of chef Jimmy Schmidt, with his longtime second-in-command Brian Recor, who go for the bold in their contemporary cuisine. Among his small-plate selections, Schmidt's butternut squash soup, finished tableside over roasted squash and microgreens, is sweet, rich and much heartier than most. His grilled Baja shrimp pop with flavor, not at all overwhelmed by the accompanying roasted sweet peppers and white beans. His large plates (divided into Fish and Seafood, Meat and Game Birds, From the Char Grill, and Hand Cut Pasta & Risotto) include roasted Santa Barbara lobster so moist it does not need drawn butter, but the pan-roasted duck breast lacked the punch of the other dishes. Many unique sides, such as garlicky broccolini and Parmesan roasted cauliflower, are offered, along with four types of comforting french fries. Schmidt is a big fan of the local produce, and the pleasing texture of his ginger-scented Coachella sweet corn showed us why. It's worth saving room for dessert, which may include crème brûlée, cakes, crisps, a modern twist on s'mores and a buttered popcorn ice cream parfait. There is a good selection of mainly California wines by the glass or bottle, and a cocktail program so extensive the menu is a beautiful bound book.


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