Cuisine:

• Italian
• Catering

Centro at The Mill Description:
Dramatic as the view at Centro at the Mill is---it overlooks a waterfall and the Byram River---it may obscure the fact that this Italian restaurant, located in a renovated carpet mill, is actually one of a three-unit chain (the others being in Darien and Fairfield). However, in this case, expansion is indicative of the old adage that practice makes perfect. To take advantage of all this branch has to offer, secure a window table or dine al fresco on the terrace, taking in the sound of the cascading water below---and the family-friendly vibe; crayons are provided for doodling on the crisp white butcher paper that serves as a tablecloth. The kitchen's expansive repertoire is a cut above what you might expect amid all the distracting bells and whistles. The rigatoni alla vodka, with its tomato vodka cream sauce and pancetta and onions, is rich with a touch of sweetness and pepper. For a standard American-style lunch, the Harry's Bar Burger, ground beef served between garlic bread with sautéed onions, smoked mozzarella, tomato and Harry's Bar Worcestershire sauce, has all the robust flavor of a steak and the comfort-food quality of an old-fashioned hamburger. Service is prompt and unobtrusive.


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