Cuisine:

• Continental
• Bar
• Southern
• Contemporary

Feed Store Description:
Co-owner Celita Bullard, an interior designer, reinvented this National Register building that once belonged to her grandmother, Ada Estelle Smith Harris. Harris operated a feed store within its confines until 1989, thus providing Bullard with the restaurant's name. Coming on board as executive chef, Detroit native Peter Golaszewski is reworking Southern classics to fit a fine dining program without losing their fundamental nature. Most successful is a grilled scallop mounted on a "risotto" of hominy and crab. The dish's creamy richness is topnotch, and all flavors stay well in focus. Less exciting is the battered fried green tomato, whose flavor gets lost in the heavy coating. The creamy Sweet Grass Dairy (Thomasville, Ga.) goat cheese perched atop crusty toast and drizzled with balsamic is a lovely opener. The Feed Store filet paired with mashed potatoes blended with collard greens showcases flavorful use of this classic Southern green. Desserts are worthy, but the slam-dunk award goes to the "sweet iced tea float": a beautifully balanced glass of sweet iced tea with a large scoop of lemon sorbet right on top. The wine list has occasional delights, but management struggles to keep interesting wines listed as the restaurant's location is off most distributors' beaten paths.


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