Cuisine:

• Sea food
• Southern

Goin' Coastal Description:
Exurban Canton, named for the eponymous city in China, is becoming a dining destination in its own right. The charming downtown has a string of appropriately renovated buildings, many of them restaurants. Owner-chef Zach Kell's second Canton operation, Goin' Coastal, blends Southern ways with sustainable seafood in a bright, casual spot. Dishes include such Southern classics as fried pickles, she-crab soup, a line-up of po' boys, low country bouillabaisse, and the Southern fried platter. We like most of the food, but find the accompanying "tartar" sauce too reliant on celery seed for its flavor impact. Desserts are most rewarding. The short wine list is very intelligently composed, and is designed to support the seafood fare the restaurant serves. Beware: Goin' Coastal tends to pull up the rug early, about 9 p.m.


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