Cuisine:

• Mexican

Casa Oaxaca Description:
Adams Morgan is now home to a classy Mexican eatery with all the colors of a wild piñata and the noise of a full-blown fiesta. The sister restaurant of Arlington's Guajillo, this two-story place offers its share of margaritas, but even better, it displays several different styles of moles, the stew-like dishes based on a paste of ground chilies and other spices and seasonings. We can't say much for the appetizer salad of warm cheese and caramelized pecans and figs---not enough of anything to make a difference---but the ravioli de huitlacoche (corn fungus) starter in its cozy poblano sauce is a standout. Entrée selections should be limited to just one of the several moles: the black mole with beans and corn tortillas is first-rate. You may want something lighter, however, and the cook lists several unusual tacos, such as those stuffed with carnitas or marinated lamb. Save room for the bread pudding dessert, quite unlike anything you might imagine and oh, so, over-the-top with its nut-and-dried fruit composition.