Cuisine:

• Italian

Pagliacci's Description:
Six decades in business makes this Denver's oldest Italian restaurant---which might help to explain the décor, which is dated and rather theme-park-ish, with cherub statues and fountains in garden vignettes, faux columns, colored lights and painted murals. We find it rather amusing, but charming, too. The highlight of the meal always comes right away: a giant pot of minestrone soup made from a decades-old recipe and a basket of warm bread; it's a meal in itself, and we recommend you make it one. Traditional Italian entrées sound wonderful, but often fall short on the plate. Eggplant Parmesan is not the just-barely-breaded slices we hope for, but instead stiff patties choked with a thick coat of bread crumbs. The homemade pastas are a big plus, though; try one with your favorite sauce. The mostly-Italian wine list is limited, but there's always something to complement the meal.


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