Cuisine:

• Others
• Contemporary
• Eclectic

Lockwood Description:
Personally, we've always found the historic Palmer House Hilton---what with its clashing patterns, marble and trompe l'oeil murals---as garish as it is gracious. But the hotel's mega-renovation (completed in 2008) left us pleasantly surprised---especially when it comes to this buzzy, lobby-adjacent restaurant serving imaginative dishes under the hand of Phillip Foss (Le Cirque in New York City, Four Seasons Resort in Maui). The fare is as elegant-but-updated (unique gelée, foams) as its near-lobby environ; now, age-old chandeliers are ensconced in blocky, modern fixtures. Fortunately, it doesn't feel fussy since most of the dishes (an interpretation of shrimp cocktail, house-cured duck prosciutto and leg rillettes with gel of forbidden forest lavender tea), while elegant, are rooted in good sense. Order the lavish tasting if you dare (and have room). Pan-roasted skate amandine and grilled skirt steak with 'mac & cheese' have also appeared on the menu. Around every corner, the compositions are unexpected. Concluding with as much pizzazz are desserts such as crème brûlée and the apple tarte Tatin with star anise ice cream. The lengthy wine list has plenty of sophisticated selections.


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