Cuisine:

• Others
• Japanese
• French
• Sea food

L2O Restaurant Description:
Hey, Laurent! Isn't there a better way to let us know that this is a fish-oriented restaurant---and an excellent one at that---than by naming it with the esoteric acronym of L 2 0? L is for Laurent, we understand, and replaces the H in the chemical symbol for water, H 2 0. The name also makes it difficult for search engines to find this elegant eatery, a pity for the uninformed who will miss a memorable dinner in the serene, almost spa-like space filled with Macassar ebony columns, plush couches and white leather chairs (the single onyx two-top has "it table" status written all over it). The discreet Laurent Gras, a disciple of Alain Ducasse, perfected his skills at New York City's Peacock Alley and San Francisco's Fifth Floor. He blends touches of Japanese, French and even a glimpse of molecular gastronomy with plenty of made-in-house treats (bread, butter, and yogurt). Dining options include a four-course menu for $110 (choose one dish from each of the categories of "raw," "warm," "main" and "dessert") and an elaborate tasting menu. There's also a ten-course menu for a hefty $245. Among the so-called "raw" selections, the peekytoe crab with avocado and kaffir lime is a standout, along with the sashimi platter with fluke, kampachi, kinmedai and shima aji. We cannot encounter a scallop on any menu without remembering Laurent's diver scallop in a sauce of vanilla, passion fruit and Sauvignon Blanc that literally melts in the mouth. It is difficult to choose from the foie gras with grapes, asparagus, bee pollen and crystallized butter and the exceptionally tender octopus graced by coconut and olive oil. For a "main," a take on shabu-shabu isn't out of the question, unless you prefer fish and opt for the steelhead salmon baked in clay. The remarkable selection of cheeses includes rare finds, as in the outstanding Brie de Nangis. For dessert, there are classic soufflés as well as more modern choices such as raspberry, golden yuzu and mascarpone, or caramel and Manjari in espresso snow. The extensive wine list, under the guidance of Chantelle Pabros, caters to both high rollers and (surprisingly) those with limited budgets. However you cut it, though, this is a special occasion experience---and you'll be amply rewarded for taking the plunge.


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