Cuisine:

• Others
• Contemporary
• American
• Eclectic

Graham Elliot Description:
Sometimes---especially when Graham Elliot Bowles is involved---things are not what they seem. Needless to say, his shoes at the haute hotel restaurant (Avenues) have effectively been filled, and he's gone on to open a high-meets-lowbrow hot-spot that remains the talk of the town. Located in an historic warehouse, the restaurant is flooded with light through floor-to-ceiling windows. Exposed brick walls and a hip, eclectic mix of tunes (some by Bowles himself) add to the place's approachable appeal. Whimsy and humor play out in many ways, from the casually clad servers to the use of familiar but repurposed ingredients like "Italian beef" with spicy giardiniera, oregano aïoli and provolone foam. As always, he pulls out all the stops---though it rarely seems for novelty's sake. In the past, we've enjoyed fried pickles with bacon-ranch gravy and Buffalo "wings"---super-crisp chicken thigh with fennel slaw and beer foam. Among mains, the short rib stroganoff stands out---it's peppery and comforting. We are less than impressed with the generously portioned pork belly with collards, however, due to too-potent root beer barbecue sauce. For dessert, it's hard to go wrong with the tricked-out, Mexican vanilla-infused orange Dreamsicle with crunchy meringue. There are communal and chef's tables.


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