Cuisine:

• Italian

Café Bionda Description:
Dark wood paneling and wide-open French windows make for a pleasant summer dining experience---and good people-watching---at this classic Italian haunt. A small bar in back, complete with flat-screen TV, offers a spot to kick back with a glass of vino. The menu never surprises and sometimes delivers, particularly in the case of the herb-y, breadcrumb-stuffed mushrooms in a pool of creamy citrus sauce. The fully loaded house salad with acidic red wine vinaigrette is a winner, too. Veal Parmesan arrives looking like a paddle---pounded thin, bigger than the size of the plate and covered in a crust of oven-browned mozzarella. Two strikes: pasta is overcooked, and service is seriously slow. But we think this neighborhood spot will appease the masses nonetheless. If you're in a rush but craving carbs, check out offshoot Bionda To Go in the Financial District.


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