Cuisine:

• American

Whisknladle Description:
What is it they say about the third time being a charm? First Fresh, then Fresh(er) and finally Whisknladle---this morphing La Jolla restaurant has finally hit its stride. Chef Ryan Johnston and proprietor Arturo Kassel have offered different takes on the locally-sourced ingredient theme since taking over this prime spot from restaurateur Sami Ladeki. The previous two incarnations were adequate, but with Whisknladle, their original vision finally shines through. Take the pan-roasted sweetbreads with fava beans and lardons; the main ingredient is complemented, not overpowered, by the bacon notes, while the favas add a welcome toothiness. We also recommend the house-cured meats and cheeses, unpretentiously presented on a cutting board with waxed paper. The only misstep on the menu is the spicy Catalan shrimp. Although cooked to a pleasing tenderness, spicy they are not; in fact, the only discernable flavor in this dish is the olive oil. Entrées are served in bowls, making them fine for sharing. We like the fried chicken with fingerling potatoes, watercress and harissa. Although the wine list is not of the fine dining caliber, it has been carefully created and contains many fun boutique selections that will appeal to the adventurous.


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