Cuisine:

• Pizza
• Italian

Pizzavino 707 Description:
Much hullabaloo surrounded the prior incarnation, West County Grill, because of New York chef creds. Alas, the kitchen never found its way, nor did the too-chichi-for-Sebastopol concept. One of the partners in that venture, Stephen Singer, returns for what seems a smarter bet: wood-fired pizzas and other creations sourced from local ingredients (707 indicates the local area code). Instantly welcoming is the menu's relaxed pricing, which now matches the casual space: brick walls, industrial lamps, unfinished wood framing around patchwork windows, banquette facing the open kitchen. Thin crust pizzas come slightly charred on their lightweight edges, more for effect than extra depth. Some tantalize with flavor and creativity: squash blossom with Parmesan, the paper-thin pressed flowers keeping their color but tasting caramelized; or heirloom tomato with arugula and pesto, farm egg oozing across the epicenter. Watch for occasional baffling taste misses: bland bacon with ricotta, spinach and lemon vinaigrette, and sausage with cheddar dominated by a suspicious blue cheese overtone. One nightly entrée and several appetizers add range. Thoughtfully priced Italian and California wines, a patio, plus pool table tucked discreetly upstairs help make the place habit-forming.


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