Cuisine:

• Italian

Trattoria Amici Description:
Occupying a prime location in the elaborate Americana at Brand shopping-entertainment complex, this smart-looking trattoria features limestone accents, linen-draped tables and an exhibition kitchen. A communal table sits beside a glass-ensconced wine cellar, and sidewalk tables are shaded by a broad awning. Service is crisp, but there is a feeling that guests are being hustled out to do more shopping, and the pace never seems totally relaxed. Burrata is paired with tomatoes and roasted peppers and ahi carpaccio is drizzled with lemon and olive oil, but few appetizers pop with flavor, the way good Italian cuisine should. Pastas are respectable, and gnocchi are soft and light, bathed in a slightly creamy pesto sauce. Grilled chicken is scented with rosemary, and a mustard crust enlivens a rack of lamb. The wine list strikes us as rather pricy for a shopping center trattoria, especially at a time when many acclaimed restaurants are providing considerable value.


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