Cuisine:

• Italian
• Others

La Morra Description:
Chef Josh Ziskin rode just under the radar for years as the chef de cuisine at Tuscan Grill in Waltham; now he's front-and-center with this northern Italian two-story on the awkward edge of Brookline Village. An exemplar of the paradox that is rustic elegance, it holds its own among greater Boston's Italophiles for its intense but astute repertoire. Downstairs in the bar area, Venetian cicchetti reign---anchovies sandwiched between fried sage leaves are a longtime fave. Upstairs, handmade pastas reign alongside secondi piatti that range from hearty roasts to grilled fish and game---all of which tend toward an earthy richness that trumps seasonal variation, be it rabbit-and-polenta "lasagna" or crispy pork shank with both black kale and black lentils. What needn't be so rich is you: hovering in the low 20s, entrée prices are surprisingly nice; the fact that primi piatti come in half-portions only sweetens the pot, as does the option of a $35 prezzo fisso.


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