Cuisine:

• Japanese
• Sushi bar

Fugakyu Japanese Cuisine Description:
Serves Japanese food, including sushi, near Coolidge Corner. The layout includes many small rooms and private booths.
After several years, the popularity of this self-described Japanese "house of elegance" continues unabated. Though in our view "house of borderline kitsch" might be a more accurate tag, and though we miss the early days---when outrageously original maki and sparkling slabs of nigiri could be had in relative quiet---we mostly agree with the assessment of the masses on this one. Fried papaya, crawfish, snow crab, pineapple and coconut are among the inspired curiosities you'll find in, on and around your wild rolls---but they don't usually outshine the star, superior cuts of fish. Meanwhile, the kitchen chefs love to play with their food as much as the sushi chefs do, to generally joyous effect; we still like the sirloin-wrapped asparagus "maki"---one of the first versions we ever encountered---as well as the oyster tataki and the anchovy tempura. But of course, you've got to pay to play---rolls average at about $9.


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