Cuisine:

• Lounge, club, bar
• Bar
• Italian

Umbria Ristorante Ultra Lounge Description:
With several floors and a locally celebrated chef, Umbria started out with a bang. But with a tricky, poorly trafficked Financial District location and the loss of said chef, it has fallen into relative obscurity. That's rather too bad, since the kitchen still valiantly strives for innovation, particularly in the way of striking juxtapositions---cantaloupe and lime jelly balances house-cured salumi; ginger and sesame tinge the cannellini that pairs with spice-crusted tuna; cauliflower and vanilla combine in a chestnut-crusted custard to accompany foie gras-stuffed boar. Granted, overt preciousness sometimes prevails. Meanwhile, however, the all-Italian wine list is downright superior; whether your tastes tend toward the Piedmontese trophies or curios from lesser-known regions, there's a bottle with your name on it. Provided you can afford it, that is; everything at Umbria is about 15 percent more expensive than it ought to be, all things considered---including the fact that the eponymous region is virtually synonymous with rustic home cooking.


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