Cuisine:

• American

The Café Description:
First the legendary, cobalt-chandeliered dining room of the venerable Ritz-Carlton was shuttered. Then the hotel itself went the way of the Sox curse, bought out by Taj Hotels. But for now, the pretty, relatively comfy Café remains intact. Eye-level to Newbury Street, the tables are set rather close, but they are beautifully appointed; indeed, the room as a whole reflects proper, refined Old Boston style. Still, the kitchen has plenty of modern fun with the classics, be they regional, très French or red-white-and-blue, as chef Franck Steigerwald turns out everything from rock shrimp hash at brunch to Dover sole with lemon-basil risotto at dinner. And it's all accompanied by that famous Ritz-Carlton service---by any other name, it's still ritzy. The in-crowds will always find the place stuffy, but we'd rather be out than go un-pampered. Of course, we still pay all too handsomely for the privilege.


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