Cuisine:

• French
• East and West
• Southwest

Les Plaisirs d'Ausone Description:
In an old stone stable located in the heart of eighteenth-century Bordeaux, Philippe Gauffre has finally attained his goal: to offer cuisine that is as good as that of his top local competitors--not easy with so many of them around--at lower prices. In a way, he was ahead of his time, not only in terms of lowered prices, but also in the range of his cooking, which assimilates all the latest trends without getting stuck in any of them. In the past, we weren't always fully satisfied with his creations: he sometimes had too light or too heavy a hand with spices. But now he seems to have found the right balance, and his flavorings show a sinewy elegance, in both simple and rich dishes: lobster salad with rabbit, ox jowls with carrots, foie gras, and shad à la gribiche. The cheerful, motivated staff also merits three toques. The prices are right on the wine list as well. But the welcome blows hot and cold.


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