Cuisine:

• Others
• American
• Californian

Five Description:
Conceived and overseen by chef Scott Howard, elevated modern American cuisine is given swank digs inside this dramatic restaurant in Berkeley's Hotel Shattuck Plaza. The wide-open, lobby-level dining room features oversized arched windows, towering, pure white columns and stark white walls with a flowery black motif---a bit like dining in a Victorian dollhouse. Flashes of red appear in wall sconces and the impressive hanging chandelier, and an ovate marble bar provides chic cocktails in-the-round. Seasonal, ingredient-driven dishes from executive chef Banks White are bright, balanced and often delicately rich, as with the roasted Tomales Bay oysters with jack cheese, spinach and touch of brandy; Yukon potato gnocchi with a nest of buttery chanterelles layered with Parmesan foam; and petrale sole folded over Dungeness mashed potatoes, crispy artichokes and citrus beurre blanc. Crispy is a term used often on the menu---from shoestring onions presented steak-side in a tiny cast-iron skillet, to seasonal squash blossoms stuffed with clouds of Sonoma goat cheese---as well as a lovely repertoire of sauces. Close attention is paid to temperature and presentation. Well-priced share plates, appetizers and entrées give plenty of options, even at the bar. On our visit the staff was apologetically overloaded---but poor pacing did not detract from the quality of cuisine and experience. Any seasonal dessert is an excellent bet---or try Howard's signature butterscotch pudding. We also recommend wines and good beers off the reasonably priced list over cocktails here.


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