Cuisine:

• Polynesian
• Others

Trader Vic's Description:
Trader Vic's takes you to Polynesia, with plenty of exotic fruit-based mixed drinks---mai tais, mojitos, Pim's Cups and such---that aim to capture the flavors of these exotic islands. The atmosphere suggests a movie set, with thatched roofs, bamboo decorative elements, and a faux-tropical environment. But surprisingly, the food is quite good, especially the fish and seafood. Some are old standby dishes, such as crab rangoon (cream cheese and crab in a deep-fried won-ton wrapper), as this audience looks for familiar fare. Executive chef Michael Broderick has mostly changed specific items rather than throwing out the whole business and starting over. A longtime favorite, the rack of lamb is still cooked in the huge wood-burning oven that's part of the décor, but now is served with grilled pineapple and chutney instead of its former peanut sauce. The duck breast is cooked in the same oven, then briefly fried and steamed, before being shredded tableside and wrapped moo shu style. The Hong Kong-style fish is a winner, maybe with sea bass aromatic with ginger and soy. The wine list consists mostly of American selections from California, some Champagnes and a few wines from other countries, mostly France, Chile and Italy. Choices are fairly ordinary, don't go well with the food, and don't measure up to the food quality, but the overall experience is fun and kitschy.


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