Cuisine:

• Mediterranean
• Eclectic
• Fast Food and Hamburgers

Ecco Description:
Atlanta's own guru of dining design Bill Johnson has crafted another ingenious space out of a former fencing school, and managed to make a cavernous 6,000-square-feet of space turn up intimate nooks and crannies. Seasonal, classic European fare drawn from around the Mediterranean forms the foundation of this cooking, and the menu allows patrons to engage in all sorts of dining experiences, from tapas and small plates to enjoy as light main dishes or full-blown dining with gorgeous choices in all three categories. We especially appreciate the almond-crumbed sweetbreads with sherry, a page right out of classic Spanish cooking. Another winner is the striped bass escabeche, with plump, firm fresh fish just slightly affected by a lightly sweet and not-too-acidic marinade. Al dente buccatini with roasted lobster and saffron is utter luxury, but fig-glazed lamb loin rates as well. Having an executive pastry chef shows in the quality of the desserts, especially the coffee panna cotta, the mixed berry crostata and the house-made sorbets and ice milks. Good coffee scores. The wine has some major assets, such as the 1996 Laurent Perrier by the glass. Like the menu, it too ranges around the Med, but needs some beefing up in several categories and some depth as well to acquire a "great" designation. Still, what's there is good stuff.


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